Just a quick post. Gerry and I finished the Everest Marathon today. Yippee!! It was the toughest thing that I have done. We ran the race and finished together in 7:46. The winning time was 3:41. The fastest time out of our group was by Richard the Aussie who ran 6:09.
Everest Base Camp is a brutal, brutal place. It's all rock and ice. Temperatures ranged from about 10 degrees in the morning to 90 degrees if the sun was out in the afternoon. It was difficult even just to walk around. Just to go to the dinner tent required a rock scramble from your tent. You were always slipping and sliding from the snow, ice and the rocks
The first 5K of the race was a dance over loose rocky moraine. It took an hour to do the 5K which normally would take 21 or 22 minutes in a regular race. Even though the course was overall downhill, from 17,500 ft to 11,200 ft, there was a lot of uphill -- over 3,000 ft. The last hour was was basically a climb with the exception of the last 2 kilometers which dropped straight down 1,000 ft. It was tough, tough, tough.
Since I've been without internet for the last several days, I'll try to update with more info and pictures tomorrow or Monday when we get back to Lukla for our flight to Kathmandu and "civilization".
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Monday, May 24, 2010
It's Snowing!
May 24
Last night during dinner, it began to rain. I did a little reading and then went to bed at about 9:00 pm. The rain drops pattered on the tent and put me to sleep.
I woke up at 1:00 am for a nature call (a side effect of being at altitude) and the rain appeared to have stopped. I poked my head outside of the tent and big snow flakes were falling. It snowed through the night and by morning, there were a couple of inches of wet snow on the ground.
Damche, our fearless leader, decided not to move up to Lobuche today because of slippery trails and danger to the porters and yaks. It was probably a wise move.
After breakfast, the race organizers were staging a photo op for some of the Nepal press that are along for the race. Gerry and I donned out very large race tshirts over our jackets and fleeces and enacted the Dingboche water stop with a couple of the top Nepali runners. I looked like the Michelin Man running. One of the reporters from a Katmandu newspaper (I didn’t get the name) interviewed us.
A couple of the boys, Toby the Brit, Gerry the Irishman, Tony the Kiwi, and I decided to get in a little more acclimatization training and decided to hike up to Tukla, a little over 3 miles and to 15,165 ft.
As we got up higher, the snow fell a bit heavier and it was cold. We moved along very quickly and were passing other trekking groups going up. They were moving very slowly. We felt good and strong on the climb.
Just before Tukla, we had to cross a rickety bridge over a raging stream. I was covered with snow and quite precarious. We tottered across trying not to look down.
Nervous Mark
At Tukla, we turned around and retraced our steps. At the bridge, a yak train was approaching. Sure enough, with a little encouragement from the yak driver, they crossed the bridge. I didn’t think that thye would make it.
Nervous Yaks
We were able to run a bit on the smoother sections of the trail on the way back. From the ridge above Dingboche, we had a nice long downhill run into town. It felt pretty good even though I was in hiking boots and carried a backpack.
As we were strolling back to the camp site, Tony stopped to get a Coke at a store. Rich the Aussie walked up to join us and a snowball fight broke out involving some of the locals. It was the Nepalis versus the Westerners. It was a massacre -- three Nepali girls soundly defeated a Kiwi, an Aussie, an Irishman, an American and Frenchman (Christian) who joined in. The fight ended when Tony fell into a stone wall and took out about 10 feet of it. Although we offered to rebuild it, the shopkeeper kept shooing us away. He wanted to rebuild it properly.
By midday, most of the snow had melted in Dingboche (although it was quite a bit deeper further up). Everyone is itching to get going to higher altitude -- we’re still over 3,000 ft below EBC, the start of the race.
After lunch, the rain began again. Thankfully, it’s not snow (yet). I spent a lazy afternoon reading in the tent, writing this post and organizing some pictures for the blog. About 3:00, I’ll go up to the local internet café and upload this and try to call Therese on Skype. It’s expensive --- 50 rupees per minute ($.75) -- but still cheaper than an international call.
Hopefully, the weather will improve tomorrow.
Last night during dinner, it began to rain. I did a little reading and then went to bed at about 9:00 pm. The rain drops pattered on the tent and put me to sleep.
I woke up at 1:00 am for a nature call (a side effect of being at altitude) and the rain appeared to have stopped. I poked my head outside of the tent and big snow flakes were falling. It snowed through the night and by morning, there were a couple of inches of wet snow on the ground.
Damche, our fearless leader, decided not to move up to Lobuche today because of slippery trails and danger to the porters and yaks. It was probably a wise move.
After breakfast, the race organizers were staging a photo op for some of the Nepal press that are along for the race. Gerry and I donned out very large race tshirts over our jackets and fleeces and enacted the Dingboche water stop with a couple of the top Nepali runners. I looked like the Michelin Man running. One of the reporters from a Katmandu newspaper (I didn’t get the name) interviewed us.
A couple of the boys, Toby the Brit, Gerry the Irishman, Tony the Kiwi, and I decided to get in a little more acclimatization training and decided to hike up to Tukla, a little over 3 miles and to 15,165 ft.
As we got up higher, the snow fell a bit heavier and it was cold. We moved along very quickly and were passing other trekking groups going up. They were moving very slowly. We felt good and strong on the climb.
Just before Tukla, we had to cross a rickety bridge over a raging stream. I was covered with snow and quite precarious. We tottered across trying not to look down.
Nervous Mark
At Tukla, we turned around and retraced our steps. At the bridge, a yak train was approaching. Sure enough, with a little encouragement from the yak driver, they crossed the bridge. I didn’t think that thye would make it.
Nervous Yaks
We were able to run a bit on the smoother sections of the trail on the way back. From the ridge above Dingboche, we had a nice long downhill run into town. It felt pretty good even though I was in hiking boots and carried a backpack.
As we were strolling back to the camp site, Tony stopped to get a Coke at a store. Rich the Aussie walked up to join us and a snowball fight broke out involving some of the locals. It was the Nepalis versus the Westerners. It was a massacre -- three Nepali girls soundly defeated a Kiwi, an Aussie, an Irishman, an American and Frenchman (Christian) who joined in. The fight ended when Tony fell into a stone wall and took out about 10 feet of it. Although we offered to rebuild it, the shopkeeper kept shooing us away. He wanted to rebuild it properly.
By midday, most of the snow had melted in Dingboche (although it was quite a bit deeper further up). Everyone is itching to get going to higher altitude -- we’re still over 3,000 ft below EBC, the start of the race.
After lunch, the rain began again. Thankfully, it’s not snow (yet). I spent a lazy afternoon reading in the tent, writing this post and organizing some pictures for the blog. About 3:00, I’ll go up to the local internet café and upload this and try to call Therese on Skype. It’s expensive --- 50 rupees per minute ($.75) -- but still cheaper than an international call.
Hopefully, the weather will improve tomorrow.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Rest Day In Dingboche
It is a rest/acclimatization day at Dingboche. After eight days, the daily routine is pretty much the same: wake up at first light (4:45), get up enough nerve to get out of the warm sleeping to go to the bathroom; coffee at 6:00, washing water at 6:30 and breakfast at 7:30. Then we pack up our gear and get on the trail for a couple of hours. Lunch stop last about two hours then it’s back on the trail for a couple of hours to our camp site for the night. Along the way are incredible views and sites. At 4:00, we have afternoon tea. Dinner is at 7:00 and then it’s back to the tent and asleep by 9:00. On acclimatization days, we have the luxury of taking walks during the day and not having to rush to pack up in the morning.
Today, Gerry and I hiked up a side valley from Dingboche to an area that is used by yak herders to graze their animals during the summer. We climbed probably 1,000 ft. or so to some stone houses used by the herders. On the way back down, we met a yak herder, Hachbar, who owns 15 yak. He built a bridge over a raging glacial river in order to get his animals to better grazing lands on the other side of the valley. He was an interesting fellow.
The mountain views from Dingboche are indescribable. Although we can no loner see Everest because it is hidden behind the Lhotse Nuptse wall, we can see Lhotse (the fifth highest peak in the world) as well as the very dramatic peaks of Ama Dablam and Island Peak.
We are acclimatizing well to the altitude. Other than a couple of minor headaches, I’m doing well. Gerry complains about the food and not being able to sleep, but he’s kind of fussy anyway. A couple of people on the trip have come down with minor stomach or respiratory ailments. Gerry and I are still in good shape and feel strong (knock on wood).
Beginning tomorrow, we will have two days of climbing to get us close to the altitude of Everest Base Camp -- first to Lobuche at 16,105 ft and then Gorek Shep on Tuesday at 16,859 ft. These are the altitudes that we will be feeling the lack of oxygen. There are no further villages higher up as well. There are a few facilities that have been developed for trekkers but no permanent settlements. I will try to post again up higher but I don’t know what capabilities there will be. It’s very expensive and the connections via satellite are slow.
That’s all for now.
Lhotse Nuptse Wall
Everest Peak Between Mark and Gerry
Ama Dablam
Today, Gerry and I hiked up a side valley from Dingboche to an area that is used by yak herders to graze their animals during the summer. We climbed probably 1,000 ft. or so to some stone houses used by the herders. On the way back down, we met a yak herder, Hachbar, who owns 15 yak. He built a bridge over a raging glacial river in order to get his animals to better grazing lands on the other side of the valley. He was an interesting fellow.
The mountain views from Dingboche are indescribable. Although we can no loner see Everest because it is hidden behind the Lhotse Nuptse wall, we can see Lhotse (the fifth highest peak in the world) as well as the very dramatic peaks of Ama Dablam and Island Peak.
We are acclimatizing well to the altitude. Other than a couple of minor headaches, I’m doing well. Gerry complains about the food and not being able to sleep, but he’s kind of fussy anyway. A couple of people on the trip have come down with minor stomach or respiratory ailments. Gerry and I are still in good shape and feel strong (knock on wood).
Beginning tomorrow, we will have two days of climbing to get us close to the altitude of Everest Base Camp -- first to Lobuche at 16,105 ft and then Gorek Shep on Tuesday at 16,859 ft. These are the altitudes that we will be feeling the lack of oxygen. There are no further villages higher up as well. There are a few facilities that have been developed for trekkers but no permanent settlements. I will try to post again up higher but I don’t know what capabilities there will be. It’s very expensive and the connections via satellite are slow.
That’s all for now.
Lhotse Nuptse Wall
Everest Peak Between Mark and Gerry
Ama Dablam
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Among the Giants
Just a quick post. We are at a satellite internet cafe (loosely speaking) in Dingboche. It's very expensive and slow, so not many updates and no pictures until we get back to Namche on the day of marathon.
We've had three good days of trekking since Namche. We are at 14,464 ft., over 5,200 ft of elevation gain since we started at Lukla.
We've had magnificent views of the great peaks -- Ama Dablam, Island Peak, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Everest. So far, Everest has been the elast impressive. We can see only the very top behind the massive Lhotse/Nuptse wall.
The trails are pretty rough in many areas. There are alot of long climbs and descents. Yesterday after lunch, we had a 2,000 ft climb to the Tengboche Monestary, the religious center of this region. It is a magnificent structure. We toured the temple where the monks pray.
Many of the monks are young boys training in the religious like. But you can't take the boy out of the boys. After 3:00 prayers, they all went running to the small flat spot to play some soccer with the local boys. Gerry got in on the game for a bit as well.
This morning (May 22), it was 28 degrees. It was tough to get out of the sleeping bag. But today's hike was wonderful -- great views around every bend inthe trail. I really can't describe the scenery. Photos don't do it justice and I don't have the literary skills to paint the picture.
I'll try to post again when we get a little higher. One week to race day!
We've had three good days of trekking since Namche. We are at 14,464 ft., over 5,200 ft of elevation gain since we started at Lukla.
We've had magnificent views of the great peaks -- Ama Dablam, Island Peak, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Everest. So far, Everest has been the elast impressive. We can see only the very top behind the massive Lhotse/Nuptse wall.
The trails are pretty rough in many areas. There are alot of long climbs and descents. Yesterday after lunch, we had a 2,000 ft climb to the Tengboche Monestary, the religious center of this region. It is a magnificent structure. We toured the temple where the monks pray.
Many of the monks are young boys training in the religious like. But you can't take the boy out of the boys. After 3:00 prayers, they all went running to the small flat spot to play some soccer with the local boys. Gerry got in on the game for a bit as well.
This morning (May 22), it was 28 degrees. It was tough to get out of the sleeping bag. But today's hike was wonderful -- great views around every bend inthe trail. I really can't describe the scenery. Photos don't do it justice and I don't have the literary skills to paint the picture.
I'll try to post again when we get a little higher. One week to race day!
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Second Acclimatization Day In Namche
May 20
Got up early again on Thursday (May 20) morning. The sky was quite clear after the storm last night. After breakfast, we had our first medical check. I’m doing fine -- pulse rate is normal and my blood pressure is lower than my last couple of checkups. Hmmm. Must be the clean mountain living.
A couple of the boys went for a run, but I don’t think that it’s a good idea at this point to run every day. You can do more harm and no good.
I decided to take a hike back up to the Shangboche airstrip and the Everest View Hotel and then back around through Khumjung.
At the airstrip, some sky divers were jumping and landing. It was quite a sight seeing the little planes taking off from the gravel strip.
The skies were pretty clear so I got magnificent view of the high peaks -- Island Peak, Ama Dablem, Lhotse, Nuptse and Everest. The scale of everything is so big it’s hard to describe or get on a photo. Nothing in the Rockies can really compare with how big the landscape is here. Even though we are at 12,000 feet, there is still a lot of vegetation unlike the Rockies or Alps at this altitude. The mountain peak rise up another 12,000 to 16,000 feet above where we are now.
I wandered through Khumjung a bit and took photos of the stupas and mani walls. On the way back, I counted the number of steps we will need to climb going over the last pass in the marathon (315 at about 15 inches per step). I won’t be running up that for sure.
I charged up my netbook this afternoon in the lodge at 150 rupees per hour. I was moving some pictures from my camera to the computer. A couple of sherpas came over and were looking through my photos so far. They liked the videos, especially one I got of a dog running across the Lukla airstrip as a plane was landing.
Tonight, we’ll be packing up for our trek to the Tengboche Monastery tomorrow. As we get into the higher villages, the goods and services available decreases significantly (and when available, the cost rises rapidly). I am not sure when I will be able to post again, perhaps not until the 29th or 30th when we are back in Namche after the marathon.
Got up early again on Thursday (May 20) morning. The sky was quite clear after the storm last night. After breakfast, we had our first medical check. I’m doing fine -- pulse rate is normal and my blood pressure is lower than my last couple of checkups. Hmmm. Must be the clean mountain living.
A couple of the boys went for a run, but I don’t think that it’s a good idea at this point to run every day. You can do more harm and no good.
I decided to take a hike back up to the Shangboche airstrip and the Everest View Hotel and then back around through Khumjung.
At the airstrip, some sky divers were jumping and landing. It was quite a sight seeing the little planes taking off from the gravel strip.
The skies were pretty clear so I got magnificent view of the high peaks -- Island Peak, Ama Dablem, Lhotse, Nuptse and Everest. The scale of everything is so big it’s hard to describe or get on a photo. Nothing in the Rockies can really compare with how big the landscape is here. Even though we are at 12,000 feet, there is still a lot of vegetation unlike the Rockies or Alps at this altitude. The mountain peak rise up another 12,000 to 16,000 feet above where we are now.
I wandered through Khumjung a bit and took photos of the stupas and mani walls. On the way back, I counted the number of steps we will need to climb going over the last pass in the marathon (315 at about 15 inches per step). I won’t be running up that for sure.
I charged up my netbook this afternoon in the lodge at 150 rupees per hour. I was moving some pictures from my camera to the computer. A couple of sherpas came over and were looking through my photos so far. They liked the videos, especially one I got of a dog running across the Lukla airstrip as a plane was landing.
Tonight, we’ll be packing up for our trek to the Tengboche Monastery tomorrow. As we get into the higher villages, the goods and services available decreases significantly (and when available, the cost rises rapidly). I am not sure when I will be able to post again, perhaps not until the 29th or 30th when we are back in Namche after the marathon.
First Day in Namche
May 19
We had our first of two acclimatization days in Namche Bazaar.
Gerry and I went for a run at 5:15 am to Thamo about 4K away from town. Although it looked relatively flat on the map, we had to run through town and the up the other side past the monastery to a series of stupas or Buddhist religious monuments. It was a tough, tough climb out of town. We did more running than walking. After that it was always up or down. A couple sections were pretty nice and I felt pretty good at the altitude.
It was beautiful being on the trail early in the morning. It was a little cloudy but occasionally we caught glimpses of the high peaks through the breaks. The locals were just getting up. The whole way we saw only four people and one donkey on the trail. We crossed the Bhote Khosi (river) and then climbed a bit before we turned around and ran back.
Coming back into Namche at 6:30, things were beginning to stir. We could hear the clink, clink, clink of the stone masons beginning their work for the day. It was a constant background sound that we hear all day long. Almost all of the building are made of stone, a very abundant local commodity! All of the stones are very precisely cut by hand. It is amazing was these workers produce.
After breakfast, we took a hike up the ridge behind Namche to the Everest View Hotel and the towns of Khumjung and Khunde. Although this was supposed to be an easy stroll, the beginning was very tough -- a switchback climb straight up for 1,450 feet to a total altitude of 12,700 feet. We were huffing and puffing the whole way. There is a dirt airstrip at the top which looks even scarier than the one at Lukla.
We stopped for coffee at the hotel. Because it was still cloudy, we caught only a few glimpses of the peaks. It’s a tease of what is to come. This hotel is very plush by trekking standards but lacks the feel of the local culture. Great views, though, of the surrounding valley and peaks.
After the stop, we walked through this high plateau to Khumjung and Khunde to follow the last 4K of the marathon course back into Namche. These villages are relatively new and develop with the assistance of Edmund Hillary over the years and have a hospital and school. They were built very western style compared to the traditional Nepalese villages. The houses here were spread out each with this plot of land of an acre or so. In most villages, the houses are packed together.
It was probably a mistake to take a look at the final section of the race course. It will be very tough. At 32K, we will cross a bridge over the Dudh Koshi and then climb 2,300 feet in elevation to the villages. The we have a final climb of 300 or so feet up some stone steps to the airstrip. We cross the airstrip to the edge of the ridge overlooking Namche. It looks straight down. The final 2K is straight down the switchbacks which are mostly loose rock and sand. Although it won’t be dangerous, it will kills the quads. The final 400 meters or so will be over relatively level ground.
You would think that a run from Base Camp at 17,598 feet to Namche at 11,286 feet would be all down hill. But it’s not. We will have a total of about 4,000 feet of climbing in the race. So in total, we will have 10,300 feet of decent to go along with the climbs.
After lunch, I took a shower at a nearby lodge for 400 NP ($5.70 US). It was wonderful. The first hot shower in four days. It may be the last until we get back into Namche.
I spent the afternoon wandering through town checking out the shops. I met a young couple, Rob from Hungary and Clare form England, who will be joining our group at Base Camp to run the race. They have been here five weeks already hiking and climbing in the area. They are very well acclimated and have been spending a lot of time running the trails.
After dinner, some of the group went into town to play pool. (how they got a pool table up here, I have no idea. I went to bed early (8:30), but woke up at about 11:00 to a fierce thunderstorm. The sherpas were scrambling around the tents putting up rainflys in the wind and pouring rain. It rained quite hard for a couple of hours. But slept quite soundly.
We had our first of two acclimatization days in Namche Bazaar.
Gerry and I went for a run at 5:15 am to Thamo about 4K away from town. Although it looked relatively flat on the map, we had to run through town and the up the other side past the monastery to a series of stupas or Buddhist religious monuments. It was a tough, tough climb out of town. We did more running than walking. After that it was always up or down. A couple sections were pretty nice and I felt pretty good at the altitude.
It was beautiful being on the trail early in the morning. It was a little cloudy but occasionally we caught glimpses of the high peaks through the breaks. The locals were just getting up. The whole way we saw only four people and one donkey on the trail. We crossed the Bhote Khosi (river) and then climbed a bit before we turned around and ran back.
Coming back into Namche at 6:30, things were beginning to stir. We could hear the clink, clink, clink of the stone masons beginning their work for the day. It was a constant background sound that we hear all day long. Almost all of the building are made of stone, a very abundant local commodity! All of the stones are very precisely cut by hand. It is amazing was these workers produce.
After breakfast, we took a hike up the ridge behind Namche to the Everest View Hotel and the towns of Khumjung and Khunde. Although this was supposed to be an easy stroll, the beginning was very tough -- a switchback climb straight up for 1,450 feet to a total altitude of 12,700 feet. We were huffing and puffing the whole way. There is a dirt airstrip at the top which looks even scarier than the one at Lukla.
We stopped for coffee at the hotel. Because it was still cloudy, we caught only a few glimpses of the peaks. It’s a tease of what is to come. This hotel is very plush by trekking standards but lacks the feel of the local culture. Great views, though, of the surrounding valley and peaks.
After the stop, we walked through this high plateau to Khumjung and Khunde to follow the last 4K of the marathon course back into Namche. These villages are relatively new and develop with the assistance of Edmund Hillary over the years and have a hospital and school. They were built very western style compared to the traditional Nepalese villages. The houses here were spread out each with this plot of land of an acre or so. In most villages, the houses are packed together.
It was probably a mistake to take a look at the final section of the race course. It will be very tough. At 32K, we will cross a bridge over the Dudh Koshi and then climb 2,300 feet in elevation to the villages. The we have a final climb of 300 or so feet up some stone steps to the airstrip. We cross the airstrip to the edge of the ridge overlooking Namche. It looks straight down. The final 2K is straight down the switchbacks which are mostly loose rock and sand. Although it won’t be dangerous, it will kills the quads. The final 400 meters or so will be over relatively level ground.
You would think that a run from Base Camp at 17,598 feet to Namche at 11,286 feet would be all down hill. But it’s not. We will have a total of about 4,000 feet of climbing in the race. So in total, we will have 10,300 feet of decent to go along with the climbs.
After lunch, I took a shower at a nearby lodge for 400 NP ($5.70 US). It was wonderful. The first hot shower in four days. It may be the last until we get back into Namche.
I spent the afternoon wandering through town checking out the shops. I met a young couple, Rob from Hungary and Clare form England, who will be joining our group at Base Camp to run the race. They have been here five weeks already hiking and climbing in the area. They are very well acclimated and have been spending a lot of time running the trails.
After dinner, some of the group went into town to play pool. (how they got a pool table up here, I have no idea. I went to bed early (8:30), but woke up at about 11:00 to a fierce thunderstorm. The sherpas were scrambling around the tents putting up rainflys in the wind and pouring rain. It rained quite hard for a couple of hours. But slept quite soundly.
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